I got a strange e-mail from someone interested in a pup.  From this e-mail and others, I think he's taking a shotgun approach, contacting dozens of breeders with the same questions.  His first contact got him my form letter reply.  I usually customize this to address any specific questions folks might have, but since his had no information about himself, I assumed a typical non-hunter.

Anyway, it turns out the guy is at least worth talking to about getting a pup from me.  The jury is still out but we shall see.  I rather suspect given the approach he will find the smoothest salesman.  I can say my best puppy buyers are the ones who have given me a thourough investigation.  They know what they are getting, they know they want what they are getting, there is no buyer's remorse or second-guessing.  I welcome folks checking me out in every imaginable way.

He sent me a follow up email that looked like a bunch of crappy internet advice.  I replied, then googled one of the stranger questions, and yes, the list of questions appears over and over on the internet, with how breeders are supposed to respond.  All of the information these questions cover is already here on my website or blog.  I invite you to actually check me out by looking around.

Here's the list, with my advice on the questions:

• First bit of advice, if the answers are on the internet, any crappy breeder can look at how he is supposed to answer the questions.

Question. Ask the breeder to describe the temperaments of both Sire and Dam.
Web Advice.  If there are ANY indications that there is aggressiveness in either line, or the breeder downplays this question, then be wary.

• Marshfield Kennel.  Most of the folks breeding aggressive dogs will lie about this answer.  I suggest if the breeder can't or won't tell you about faults in his dogs (they all have them) you are probably dealing with a liar.

Q. Ask "Why did you breed these two particular dogs? What do you think these puppies will contribute to the future of the breed?"
WA. All responsible breeders should have a series of specific answers to this question, which might be something like "The Dam has a superb temperament, great conformation and movement, and decent field ability. I chose this Sire because... "

• MK.  Most breeders are breeding their dogs, because they are the dogs they own.  Most are also wise enough to blow smoke up the asses of perspective buyers to clinch the sale.

Q. What are your objectives of your breeding program? Rate the characteristics? (i.e. health, temperament, conformation, field test ability)
WA: (None)

• MK:  The objective of every program should be to improve the faults the breeder has in his lines -- to make each generation better.  The question should be about what techniques the breeder has, how many generations out do he plans matings and such.

Q. What do you look for in a prospective owner of your pups?
WA: They should let you know as a measure of their concern for their offspring.

• MK:  Puppy mills are using lengthy questionnaires stolen from the web to make it appear they care where their puppies go.  You'll never know if your breeder cares more about you or your money by simply asking this question.

Q. Are your puppies sold with a contract? What does the contract entail?
WA: Contracts should be in place to protect the puppy though out the life of the dog.

• MK:  Go look at the contract.  Does it say the breeder can sue you because he doesn't like the way you are keeping his dog?  Does it say he can "repossess" the dog without warning or notice?  Does it say you have to pay all court costs even if you win?  Most dog contracts I've seen are garbage and unfair to the buyer.  You'd better read the contract rather than asking what it entails.  Mine doesn't have this provision.  If I think you are abusing my pup, I'm calling the Animal Cops on you.

Q. How long you been involved in the breed have and how many litters have you had?
WA:  If the number is high then ask, how can you possibly be responsible for all those dogs

• MK:  How do you know what a high number is, or a low one?  I know lots of folks folks who have been breeding over 25 years.  One has as few as zero litters in a calendar year, and as many as four.  Average, probably two.  Does 50 litters sound like a lot?  Puppy mills and high-volume breeders will lie to you about the numbers.

Q. Why do I have to co-own a bitch with you and breed a litter as stated in the sales contract? (if applicable)
WA:  How do you know at this age of 7-8 weeks that this bitch is breeding quality?

• MK:  I sometimes have a deal worked out with some of my trusted friends for limited breeding rights.  If the bitch doesn't work out as a breeding prospect, they are off the hook for their end of the bargain.  If the breeder is not a close friend of yours and wants these strings attached, walk away.  However, some breeders use co-ownership in lieu of restricted breeding registrations to control what you do with the pup.  If you want to breed or sell their pup, you need their signature.  I have mixed emotions about this, but might try it in the future if my current plan doesn't work.

Q. What guarantees do you give on hips, or other health problems that may arise? If my dog fails the OFA x-ray at age two what is your policy on money refunded or help with medical bills?
WA: (none)

• MK #1:  Don't get me started on OFA.  Your question should start "What are the PennHIP scores of the sire and dam?" and you should know what good ones are for the breed.  In GSP's they should be .35 or less.  OFA is not predictive, it isn't worth the paper it's printed on. PennHIP your pup at six months.
• MK #2: State laws have been written recently that get between the breeder and the buyer.  For instance, Maine requires I pay 50% of the reasonable veterinary bills up to 50% of your purchase price, which I think is unfair to you.  However, they require I do it for the life of the pup for any problem that was present when the pup left here, even for things that could be discovered and either prevented or diminished at six months of age, which I think is unfair to me.  I would prefer to give you 12 months to PennHIP your puppy and then give you a full refund or a new pup if dysplasia appears.  But since I can't limit the time or put any requirements on you to do diagnostic tests or keep the dog fit, I'll take the 50% limit.  The HSUS and feel-good legislators are making dog breeding into a one-size-fits-all affair.  They affect the little guys who care about following the laws more than they will ever put a dent in puppy mills.
  

Q. Are you aware of any health problems in your dogs’ lines?
WA:  Shows how well the breeder understands the lineage of their dogs and their awareness of health issues in their line and the breed.

• MK:  This is another place where a breeder might lie.  Many breeders don't even know umbilical hernias are a genetic health problem.  All a breeder has to do to make you happy with his answer is give an internet list of known health problems in the breed and then tell you he doesn't have them.  A quick Google search for GSP's shows:  Health Issues: Health problems are rare but may include hip dysplasia, entropion and epilepsy.  "We don't have any of that here!"
  

Q. Can you can rate your puppies and pick one for me i.e. low, medium, high (warp) speed/personality, dominant or submissive etc.
WA: (none)

• MK:  This is a stupid question.  A lousy breeder will pick the hardest-to-sell pup out of the batch and tell you he's the smartest, handsomest, most easy going, and with the most hunting ability ever demonstrated in an eight-week old pup.  A breeder should be able to help you select a pup, but pick one for you when you haven't even given your criteria?  Please.
  

Q. Have you ever had a dog returned for health reasons, or other reasons?
WA:  (none)

• MK:  Again, a disreputable breeder will lie to you.  I wonder what the compilers of this list would think a good answer is.  "No, we didn't take the dog back because of his health issues."  How about "We had one come back due to a divorce."
  

Q. How long have you been breeding and what type of research did you do to select the sire?
WA: (none)

• MK:  This is a combination of two previous questions, leading me to believe this list has been complied from other lists.

Q. Are you involved with breed rescue?
WA:  While (this breed) is less often in need of rescue than some other breeds, all breeders should be willing to help with placing them.

• MK:  Almost no breeders are involved in breed rescue.  I think I'm the exception the proves the rule.  Being involved in breed rescue does not improve the quality of my puppies.  It might speak to how I feel about cleaning up other breeders' messes, but I would be producing the same quality pups with our without volunteering.
  

Q. If it is their first litter, what other experienced breeders are helping to evaluate the puppies?
WA: (none)

• MK:  Again, stupid question and easy to lie about.  Personally, I think it's important to have folks in and out of your breed that you can discuss things with.  Also important -- talking to horse and livestock breeders on general concepts.
  

Q. Are you going to be a training mentor, help me to find a trainer, or if it is a long distance buy, is there anyone in my area who will do so?
WA:  Especially important for first time owners.

• MK:  Most good breeders do training days, however it is your responsibility as a buyer to train your pup.  There are NAVHDA chapters all over the country and other dog clubs as well.

My final piece of advice, before you send a form e-mail, first investigate any information the breeder has made public.  Then talk to him and try to figure out if you think he's honest.  Then get answers to these questions during a conversation (or series of conversations) that doesn't sound like you are reading them.  Don't give the breeder several hours to answer with help from Google.